Monday, February 10, 2014

131116 Israel Jordan

A last minute change in my work schedule gave my wife and me a nice chance to visit Israel and Jordan, before going to Slovakia for business.  My spouse signed us up for the Christian tour of the Israel and Jordan. 

Two uneventful flights from Phoenix and Newark delivered my wife and me to Tel Aviv by mid Sunday morning.  After checking into a local hotel, we decided to explore the surrounding area.  We were very close to the Camel Market.  Indeed in the older days, this place was where people came to sell and buy camel.  No more.  It is now a lively and plentiful farmers' market.

Preparing to depart Phoenix Sky Harbor.
Inside a new Boeing 737.

Camel Market in Tel Aviv, Israel.

After a restful night and a hearty breakfast, my wife and I were ready to start our exploration of this wonderful region.  Our tour group had about 14 members, coming from many parts of the world: South Africa, Sweden and the United States.  Our first stop was Caesarea, a sea side town built by Herod the Great, with a great amphitheater and hippodrome.  There were also what was left of a double aqueduct  and a fortress constructed by Crusaders.  This little port city had quite a checkered history.

Amphitheater in Caesarea, Israel.

Demonstrating the proper use of public toilet by the ancient people of Caesarea, Israel.

Tel Megiddo followed.  This location experienced many epic battles and wars due to its strategic placement along very important trade routes.  At the top of the mount are the ruins of a settlement and military camp.  It had stables for horses used to draw chariots into battles.  There was a very long tunnel dug deep to reach fresh water in case the Tel was put under siege.

Tel Megiddo, Israel.

From Tel Megiddo, we went to Haifa, a seaport on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea.  Our guide introduced this city as the granary of Israel.  Many high technology companies have research and development centers here too.  Haifa is also the home of the Bahá'í World Centre, the spiritual and administrative centre of the Bahá'í Faith.

Garden of Bahá'í Faith overlooking the Shrine of the Báb and the port of Haifa, Israel.

Haifa, Israel.

While walking along the cobblestone streets of the seaport of Haifa, my wife tumbled and twisted her ankle.  Kindness of members of the tour group helped ease her discomfort with offers of pain medication and bandages.  She recovered quickly and was able to enjoy the rest of the tour.

For the next couple of nights, we stayed at a hotel run by the people of Kibbutz Lavi.  While there, we learned about life at this and other kibbutzim.  People at Kibbutz Lavi chose a socialistic approach: they are compensated based needs as defined by the community from a common budget which all revenues of all kibbutznik go in.  Other kibbutzim may choose different economic systems.

With Kibbutz Lavi as base, we went out to visit the Church of the Multiplication (of the Loaves and Fishes).  It is believed that the miracle of the feeding of a crowd of many thousands with only a few loaves of bread and a couple of fishes.

Church of the Multiplication (of the Loaves and Fishes) - a Roman Catholic church located in Tabgha, on the northwest shore of the Sea of Galilee in Israel.

Altar of the Church of the Multiplication

Next was a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee.  In the middle of this ride, members of our tour group and those of another sang gospel songs and dance joyously.  After the ride, we visited the museum of a nearby kibbutz where the remain of a boat dating back to the 1st century was on display.

On the Sea of Galilee.

We then drove over the Golan Heights, which saw many bloody battles between Israel and Syria, to Banias.  Our guide introduced us to the historical significance of this mountain site, which has temples dedicated to the Greek god Pan.  It is also one of the many sources of the Jordan River.

Mount Hermon and a source of the Jordan River in the Hermon Nature Reserve.

We returned to the shores of the Sea of Galilee in time for lunch.  One of the favorite dishes at this locality was "St Peter's fish" - grilled tilapia.  In the afternoon, we visited Capharnaum, also known as Capernaum.  The Church of the Beatitudes was our last stop for the day.


Statue of Peter at Capharnaum (Capernaum), Israel.

Church of the Beatitudes by the Sea of Galilee near Tabgha and Capernaum in Israel.


Our first stop of the next morning was  the Yardenit Baptismal Site.  One member of our tour group rededicated herself to her faith by renewing her baptism in the Jordan River.  Then we went onto Nazareth to the visit the grotto of Marie and the Basilica of the Annunciation.

Yardenit Baptismal site on the Jordan River.

Altar of the Basilica of the Annunciation in Nazareth.

We made a stop at Beit She'an and learned of its amazing history.  Among the ruins were the Roman steam bath, an amphitheater and a hippodrome. Our tour group went onto Jerusalem, which would serve as base for the next few days.

Ruins of Beit She'an.

Jerusalem.

In Jerusalem, we stood at Mount of Olives and overlooked the old city and its walls.  We proceeded to the Church of All Nations, with its beautiful ceilings.  Within it is the rock where Jesus was believed to have prayed before his arrest.  It was surrounded by the faithfuls.

The bedrock where Jesus is believed to have prayed in the Church of All Nations.

Our next stopping point was King David's Tomb.  One of the chambers of this massive structure is said to be the place where the Last Supper was held.  In the room next to the one containing the stone sarcophagus of King David, Jewish scholars studied ancient religious writings.

King David's Tomb.

Studying religious text next to King David's Tomb.

We went on to the famous Western Wall, also known as the Wailing Wall, and the Dome of the Rock.  We then walked along Via Dolorosa.  Our guide identified all the "Stations of the Cross", points of references of Jesus' march to his crucifixion. We ended at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

The Dome of the Rock and the (Western) Wailing Wall.

Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem.

The Aedicule inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

There are numerous challenges to the authenticity of the claims of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  But they did not deter faithfuls and tourists - like our group - from flocking to this location.  To provide another point of view, our tour included a visit to the Garden Tomb.  This site is claimed by many as the real Golgotha.  An Australian volunteer at the Garden Tomb greeted us and presented evidences backing up their story.  Even then, this site is not without its own controversies.

Entrance to the burial chamber at the Garden Tomb.

The next day's outing included the Israel Museum with its larger scale model of Jerusalem, the Shrine of the Book which houses the Dead Sea Scrolls, the Church of the Visitation in the Ein Karem neighborhood. 

Large scale model of old Jerusalem.

The Church of the Visitation in Ein Karem.

Any tour of Israel would be incomplete without a visit to Yad Vashem, the official memorial to the victims of the Holocaust.  Seeing proofs of such evil and feral behavior by humans was very gut wrenching and deeply upsetting.  But it was also uplifting to hear evidences of heroism and compassion in the face of such barbarism.

Sculpture, showing the roundup of Jewish People by the faceless Nazis.

Memorial to Dr. Janusz Korczak.

We then proceeded to the border between Israel and the West Bank, where we were handed over to George Safar, a Palestinian guide who was very kind and professional.  He took us to see the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem.  My understanding is that this Basilica is under the join jurisdiction of the Armenian, Greek and Roman Catholic churches.  There was a very large crowd of people the day we were there.

Nativity Grotto.

Vendor of corn (maize) in Bethlehem, Palestinian Territories.

Our last day as tour group began at Qumran, the location where nearly 900 Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in nearby caves.  The follow-up point of visit was Masada, an ancient fortification at the top of an isolated rock plateau.  This site had a fascinating history, from its heights as a royal retreat to being a rebel camp overrun by the Roman army.  Its name invoked images of Jewish insurgents committing mass suicide rather than surrendering to or being captured by the Roman legionnaires.  We ended our day with a dip in Dead Sea, with a promise of health benefits from such mineral saturated water.

Cave 4 of Qumran, Israel.

Model of Masada, Israel.

Salt art at Mitzpe Shalem, Israel.

All members of our tour group returned to their respective homes, my wife and I joined another team and went on to Jordan.  Our first stop point, after crossing the border, was Jerash with its ruins of an ancient Roman city.

The Arch of Hadrian at Jerash, Jordan.

The new day brought excitement as we headed to the main feature of our tour: Petra.  We began a long walk along the canyon, paved by the Nabataeans, the original inhabitants of this area.  Both sides of the road, also known as the Siq, were high walls of beautiful red rocks.  Along its way were evidence of an advanced civilization, such as channel to carry captured rain water to the dwellings, tombs of various sizes, and temples.  Our wonderful reward at the end of our walk was the impressive Al Khazneh, or the Treasury, a beautiful facade carved into the side of a canyon wall.  It is the star of Petra.  Regardless of how many times it was depicted in popular media such as movies, being in its presence was breathtaking.  In spite of some two thousand years of erosion, the size and the details of this magnificent edifice still inspire awe.  While Al Khazneh is the most beautiful, Petra has many more similar structures, as one hikes further along the valley to the right.  The skills and dedication of the Nabataeans in making such buildings deserved admiration.

On the way to Petra, Jordan.

Al Khazneh or The Treasury at Petra, Jordan.

Our last day in Jordan began with a visit to the Basilica of St George in the town of Madaba, with its historic mosaic map of the region.  While there, we also stopped by a factory of mosaics and witnessed how the local workers designed and assembled such intricate pieces of art.

Our team proceeded to Mount Nebo, upon which Moses was said to have laid eyes on the Promised Land without being allowed to set foot on it.  Our time in Jordan ended with our return to Israel.

Basilica of St George in Madaba, Jordan.

Beautiful smile while making mosaics in Madaba, Jordan.

Panoramic view from Mount Nebo, Jordan.

My wife and I spent a few more days in Tel Aviv, enjoying its unseasonably warm weather and exploring its southern neighborhood of Jaffa.  Both of us even returned to Jerusalem by bus and spent a day there at the complex of the Israel Museum, which had a special exhibition about Herod the Great. 

Al-Bahr Mosque in Yafo (aka Jaffa), Israel.

Church of St Peter in Yafo (aka Jaffa), Israel.

A fellow member of the original tour group in Israel, Mr. Rainer Stalvik, a delightful Swedish, published his pictures at http://stalvik.se/resor/israel-resa/.  I learned much from his photographic skills and thank him for his generous sharing of his experience.

My wife and I had a wonderful time in Israel and Jordan.  Both of us learned a lot about the Israeli and Jordanian people, their histories, cultures and enjoyed their respective cuisines.  While many of our pictures are private, you are invited to view selected few posted at https://picasaweb.google.com/108013863525571472697/131116IsraelJordanScenic.

Your critiques and comments of this blog and pictures are solicited and welcome in my continuing effort to improve my skills.

Thank You and Enjoy,
Paul

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